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A Day at Balboa Park in San Diego

Leslie Carbone
Balboa Park

I stopped to savor the view of the San Diego skyline rising beyond the trees as I strolled across the Cabrillo Bridge.  Cars rolled along the freeway below, and a plane descended toward the airport.  The weather was typical for southern California — warm, dry, and sunny.

I was planning to enjoy the day at Balboa Park.  The sprawling urban oasis boasts lots of museums, gardens and trails, and the San Diego Zoo.  It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  A cultural-history buff could spend days exploring Balboa Park.  I recommend planning to visit two or three of the ticketed venues per day.

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But first, some background:  In 1904, the United States took over construction of the Panama Canal, which would be completed ten years later.  This 20th-century engineering marvel allows vessels to cross from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean without having to sail all the way around South America.  San Diego is the first U.S. port for vessels sailing north from the western side of the Canal.

In celebration of the Canal’s opening, San Diego held a Panama-California Exposition in Balboa Park.  The Park is named after Vasco Núñez de Balboa, the Spanish explorer who saw the Pacific Ocean from a mountaintop on the isthmus of Panama in 1513.  The Exposition opened in 1915 and became a two-year event featuring amusement rides, an ostrich farm, and a replica of the Panama Canal.

Lots of new structures were built for the Exposition.  Their Spanish Colonial Revival design celebrates San Diego’s history and culture.  This architectural style’s characteristic design elements include asymmetrical shapes, courtyards, small balconies, Roman arcades, clay tile, and stucco finishes.  Many of the structures are still standing, and they give Balboa Park its unique look and vibe.

I have visited Balboa Park several times, most recently during my pre-cruise stay in San Diego.  Here are 21 highlights for history and culture lovers:

Cabrillo Bridge

Cabrillo Bridge is the main entry way into Balboa Park.  It is located on El Prado, the main boulevard through the Park.  The multiple-arched Bridge was built in 1914 for the Panama-California Exposition.  You may cross on foot or by car.  It offers a fabulous view of the San Diego skyline.  It is named for Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, the Spanish explorer credited with discovering San Diego Bay.

Plaza de Panama

The Plaza de Panama is the bustling heart of Balboa Park.  You will easily reach it by following El Prado into the Park.  It has a beautiful fountain and plenty of places to sit for bit and enjoy the open air and surrounding architecture.

Visitors Center

The Visitors Center is located in the House of Hospitality, about 100 feet from the Plaza de Panama fountain.  Here you can find information about the Park’s many attractions and amenities, pick up maps, and book tours.  There is also a gift shop.

Walking Tours

The best way to learn a new place is on foot.  There is an overview tour at 11 a.m. every Tuesday and on the second, fourth, and fifth Fridays of the month.  Tours are complimentary and leave from the Visitor Center.  You may also request a custom tour.

Pan American Plaza

This large open space is surrounded by several Park attractions.  It is about 1,000 feet from the Plaza de Panama.

Spreckels Organ Pavilion

The Spreckels Organ was built for the Panama-California Exposition.  It is the largest outdoor pipe organ in the world.  Its Pavilion hosts daily concerts at 6:30 p.m.

On July 27, 1915, former President Theodore Roosevelt gave a speech at the Pavilion.  He praised the Park’s uncommon architecture and expressed hopes that San Diego would keep the new buildings long beyond the Exposition.

The Spreckels Organ Pavilion is located between the Plaza de Panama and the Pan American Plaza.

San Diego Zoo

The world-renowned, open-air San Diego Zoo is home to thousands of animals from hundreds of species and sub-species, including elephants, giraffes, cheetahs, leopards, tigers, and reptiles.  It hosts the largest koala colony outside Australia.  The Zoo also boasts a botanical garden and an arboretum.  You may take a bus tour of the Zoo and/or ride the “Skyfari” gondola above it.  It’s one of the best zoos I’ve visited.  Tickets are required.

Balboa Park Carousel

Park Boulevard at Zoo Plaza

This century-old classic merry-go-round features 52 hand-carved animals to ride, including horses, giraffes, zebras, ostriches, cats, frogs, and dragons.  It’s located outside the Zoo.  Tickets are required.

Old Globe Theatre

1363 Old Globe Way

This structure is modelled after the Globe Theatre in London.  It presents programs ranging from the Shakespearean plays to the film adaptation of Dr. Seuss‘s How the Grinch Stole Christmas.  During a 1983 visit with Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth II unveiled its sculpture of William Shakespeare.  Show tickets are required.

Fleet Science Center

1875 El Prado

This science museum has exhibits on subjects ranging from color to electricity.  It also has a theatre featuring IMAX movies and a planetarium show.  Tickets are required.

Institute of Contemporary Art San Diego

1439 El Prado

The Institute of Contemporary Art presents “experimental art”.  Nominal donations are requested.

Mingei International Museum

1439 El Prado

This Museum displays folk art.  Admission to the first-floor “Commons Level” is complimentary; tickets are required for the second-floor “Gallery Level”.

Museum of Us

1350 El Prado

The Museum of Us explores anthropology.  Exhibit subjects range from Ancient Egypt to “BEERology”.  When I visited at Christmastime, an annex housed a temporary exhibit on “Cannibals:  Myth & Reality”, with display subjects ranging from the settlement at Jamestown to the siege of Leningrad (St. Petersburg), and an interactive video asking you to make hard choices as a member of the Donner-Reed party.

The main building boasts the California Tower.  Built for the Panama-California Exposition, the ornate Tower blends several architectural styles, including Baroque and Rococo, with Gothic details.  You may take a tour of the Tower and enjoy the views of San Diego and beyond from its viewing platform 387 feet above sea level.

Tickets are required.

San Diego Model Railroad Museum

1649 El Prado

This Museum houses the largest indoor collection of model railroads in North America.  It explores the role of railroads in history, particularly western history.  Tickets are required.

San Diego Museum of Art

1450 El Prado

The San Diego Museum of Art maintains a large collection, including many magnificent paintings by European masters like Goya, El Greco, Renoir, Rubens, van Dyck, and Velazquez.  Tickets are required.

San Diego Natural History Museum

1788 El Prado

This massive museum maintains a collection of 8 million specimens.  Its displays include live lizards and scorpions, dinosaur fossils, gems and minerals, rare books, historical documents, and a Foucault pendulum.  Tickets are required.

Timken Museum of Art

1500 El Prado

This small museum houses American and European works, including paintings by Copley, Fragonard, Rembrandt, Rubens, and van Dyck.  Admission is complimentary.

Japanese Friendship Garden & Museum

2215 Pan American Road

The extensive garden features pathways meandering through colorful flora including cherry blossoms, hydrangeas, wisteria, irises, camellias, and crape myrtles.

There are koi ponds, flowing waters, a bonsai display, and artifacts like Japanese woodblock prints.  I had a lovely time strolling though the garden during my recent visit — and even saw a girl having professional photos taken in her billowing lavender quinceañera gown and silvery tiara.  Tickets are required.

San Diego Air & Space Museum

2001 Pan American Plaza East

The Air & Space Museum celebrates San Diego’s contributions to aviation and aerospace exploration.  Its artifacts include the Apollo 9 command module, a Lockheed A-12 Blackbird spy plane, and a reproduction of Charles A. Lindbergh’s Spirit of St. Louis.  Tickets are required.

San Diego Automotive Museum

2080 Pan American Plaza

This Museum explores history through its collection of classic cars, vintage automobiles, and other rare vehicles.  Tickets are required.

Spanish Village Art Center

1770 Village Place

This venue houses studios where you may watch local artists at work.  Admission is complimentary.

Bon voyage!

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What to Know before You Go to Balboa Park

 

Balboa Park spans 1,200 acres in San Diego.  It is bordered by Sixth Street, Upas Street, 28th Street, Russ Boulevard, and the San Diego Freeway.

El Prado begins where Laurel Street meets Sixth Street, midway between Upas Street and the San Diego Freeway.

There are 11 parking lots.  There is a complimentary tram inside the Park with stops at three parking lots, the Spreckels Organ Pavilion, and the Plaza de Panama.

San Diego’s Old Town Trolley stops near the Spreckels Organ Pavilion; the Tour narration includes brief information about the Park’s history, architecture, and attractions.

Balboa Park is free of charge to enter, all day, every day.  Its individual venues keep their own opening days and hours, and many have admission fees.  I used a GoCity pass, which includes admission to:

As of this writing, Rakuten is offerring 1 percent cash-back on GoCity passes.

There are plenty of places to eat in Balboa Park:

Wear lightweight layers, comfortable walking shoes, a hat, and plenty of sunscreen.

Allow at least one full day.

Four- and five-star hotels within two miles of Balboa Park include:

Continue your adventure in the Southwest:

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